It is a cool and sunny 60 degrees Fahrenheit, 16 celsius here in Nong Khiaw Wednesday morning. I am feeling awake, energized and excited for the day. Today I start a three day, two night excursion. It will entail camping high in a mountain and awaking to a sea of clouds, trekking to a waterfall, staying with a local family and learning how to weave bamboo baskets, and kayaking down the Nam Ou River. Yesterday I went to the Ban Man Da Museum, a museum about how the Indochina War and Secret War affected the local people of Nong Khiaw. I used to not like museums, but I think it is really important to go to learn about the local culture and people. The Secret War in Laos refers to a covert military campaign led by the United States from 1964 to 1973 during the Vietnam War (2nd Indochina War). It was conducted primarily by the CIA and U.S. Air Force to combat the communist Pathet Lao and disrupt the Ho Chi Minh Trail, a key supply route used by North Vietnam through Laos and Cambodia. The U.S. dropped over 2 million tons of bombs on Laos, making it the most heavily bombed country per capita in history. Many of these bombs remain unexploded, posing dangers to civilians today. The CIA recruited and trained the Hmong ethnic group to fight against the Pathet Lao and North Vietnamese forces. Hmong fighters, led by General Vang Pao, played a crucial role in guerrilla warfare. The war was kept secret from the American public and even Congress, as Laos was officially neutral under the 1954 Geneva Accords. Being at the museum I saw the plethora of bombs and explosives that were dropped years ago on the very ground I am standing on. One of the most staggering statistics about the Secret War in Laos is that from 1964 to 1973, the U.S. dropped an average of one bomb every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day, for 9 years. There was a cave at the museum where the local people of Nong Khiaw had to live in due to the intensity and frequency of the bombings. It was really startling to see so much damage done. As an American it poses an interesting ethical and moral dilemma today. How should I feel right now seeing the damages? I feel for the people of Lao and feel some remorse for my country. On the other hand I understand war is a dirty game and there are consequences. I never knew the details of the bombing campaign on Lao and how it was hidden from the American public and even congress! With all this in mind I feel the desire to give back to the people here. When you are traveling you take so much, but it is very important to balance this out with giving back. I have been wanting to volunteer on a farm for some time but have not found the right country or place or reason until now. At the bus station the other day I saw a poster for a nice organic farm and homestay I will try and work at in a week or two. After the museum yesterday I hiked to a beautiful viewpoint over Nong Khiaw. The green river running through the limestone mountains was serene. I am always in awe of creation, Mother Nature, and the people that make it special. There is no way that this is all entropy bro!
