Rachel and I just wrapped up an incredible three weeks in Guatemala. Honestly, Guatemala might be one of my favorite countries I have ever visited, not just in Central America but globally. The culture is rich, the food is great, the nature is stunning, and there are so many unique experiences you can only have there. I would recommend Guatemala to just about anyone.
Two days ago, I left Guatemala and came to El Tunco, El Salvador, a small surf town on the coast. I am here for a week, and there were a couple reasons I decided to come.
I have been interested in El Salvador for a few years now, largely because of what President Nayib Bukele has been doing with the country. Cleaning up gangs, dramatically reducing violence, improving safety, and investing in infrastructure. I follow him on Twitter and, from the outside at least, it looks like he is leading the country with a clear vision and real execution. That alone made me curious enough to see El Salvador firsthand.
The flight from Guatemala City to San Salvador was only about 35 minutes. As I was getting off the plane, I started talking to a guy who was sitting in the same exit row as me. I had a nice window seat, and we struck up a casual conversation. He asked where I was going, and I told him El Tunco. He said he was visiting his father in El Salvador and renting a car, and then casually said I should come with him instead of taking an Uber.
The Uber would have been about $40, which felt expensive, so I figured why not. I have been traveling alone again recently, and I tend to say yes to these kinds of experiences. Worst case, it is just a story.
We go to the rental car counter, and the process takes forever. I am very patient, but it probably took close to 30 minutes just to book the car. Eventually they tell him the car needs to be washed, so we go sit outside while they get it ready. It is around 4 p.m. at this point.
He asks if I want anything from Pizza Hut. I say no, I am not hungry. He orders anyway and gets me a Coke and a pepperoni pizza. Trying to be polite, I drink the Coke, but then he prays over the pizza and asks if I go to church. I tell him no, that I am Jewish. He immediately realizes the problem and asks if I eat pork. I tell him no. He apologizes and says he should have asked sooner. I tell him it is fine and that I did not want food anyway.
Turns out he is a pastor who preaches in English in Los Angeles and Spanish in Guatemala City, and he is visiting his sick father in El Salvador.
Another 30 minutes pass. Then another hour. Finally, almost two hours later, the rental car shows up. We get in the car, and he drives incredibly slowly. He misses turns, turns around, and eventually realizes that El Tunco is farther than where his father lives. He suggests we park at his dad's place and then get me an Uber from there.
At that point, I just roll with it.
We stop at his father's place, and then he actually gets into the Uber with me, which I found a little strange. He explains that he needs to get to his dad anyway to take care of him. The drive is long because there is a lot of construction, tunnels, and bypasses throughout El Salvador.
That was the first thing I really noticed about the country. The infrastructure is impressive. The roads are excellent, honestly better than some roads in the United States. There are brand new shopping malls and very visible investment in development.
During the Uber ride, we start talking about life, taxes, and government. He tells me that in Guatemala, many people do not pay taxes because the government is so corrupt. People do not want to give money to a system they know will misuse it. Even he, someone who considers himself a good citizen, says he does not pay taxes and instead donates money directly.
That conversation really got me thinking about the nature of government. In theory, government exists for the greater good. Individuals contribute money so it can be used for education, healthcare, roads, and infrastructure. In practice, that ideal is rarely achieved well. Corruption, bureaucracy, and inefficiency seem to be the norm almost everywhere, with only a few exceptions.
The more I see governments around the world, the more I lean toward believing in small government. Let the state do the bare minimum it needs to do. Build infrastructure, support education, maybe healthcare. But do not let bureaucracy suffocate a nation. I believe much more in private markets, individual responsibility, and decentralized solutions than relying heavily on government systems to solve everything.
Eventually, I arrive in El Tunco.
I am staying in a small place that is technically a hostel, but really just four private rooms. I have my own space for $25 a night, which I am very happy with. The town itself is small, walkable, and extremely surf-focused. Paved roads, lots of surfers, lots of cafes catering to digital nomads. The beach itself is not particularly beautiful, and there are quite a few vibey cafes that all feel somewhat similar.
I got a massage and cupping yesterday, and honestly, after a long and active trip through Guatemala, I am ready to work. Head down, laptop open. Digital nomad mode.
Over the next few days, I am going to rank El Tunco in terms of Central American beach towns for livability. There are clear pros and cons compared to places like El Paredon. El Tunco is more developed and has better Wi-Fi, but it is very surf-centric. I tend to like towns that offer a bit more variety, things like beach volleyball or other community activities beyond just surfing.
Still, I am excited to be here. This is El Salvador. And I am curious to see how it feels to live here, even briefly, after everything I have heard and thought about the country.