Another 5+ hour day on the bike. The past three days since leaving Hanoi have been absolutely grueling. This morning, I woke up sore all over and went looking for a place that does cupping therapy. After first experiencing cupping in Laos and then again in China, I've been on the hunt for more authentic spots. I found a small massage shop offering cupping for just over $3. The session really helped with my back soreness — plus, you get those cool marks all over your back, which I kind of love.
Earlier that morning in Phong Nha, I stopped by a local pharmacist who bandaged up my wounds and gave me some disinfecting spray. One thing I really like about Asia is how many of the medicines are made from natural sources. The spray, similar to Neosporin, came with images of flowers and plants it was derived from. Throughout this trip, I've been moving away from synthetics and leaning into more natural living — herbal toothpaste, natural deodorants, cotton, silk, linen, and wool clothing. After seeing a Hadza chief in Tanzania with the whitest teeth I've ever seen, I've fully switched to herbal toothpaste. Now I only buy body wash and shampoo with no perfumes and with simple ingredients like goat's milk.
After getting patched up, I made my way to the famous Duck Stop. For $4, you get to be a "Duck Leader" for 30 minutes — basically walking around feeding ducks while they nibble at your feet and clothes. It's a silly tourist thing that backpackers do, but it was honestly so ridiculous and fun that it was worth every penny. The ducks were adorable.
By the afternoon, I was debating whether to take a rest day, drive deeper into the mountains for some epic views, or head straight to Hue. I decided to push on to Hue to give myself more time in Da Nang and Hoi An. Plus, the weather near Phong Nha wasn't looking great. It was a tough call — supposedly the best nature on the Ho Chi Minh Road is south of Phong Nha — but after everything I've seen this trip, I was content with my decision.
The drive to Hue took 5 hours. I expected it to be 3, but the highway Google Maps sent me to was under construction. Somehow, even though I've only been in Vietnam for a month, it feels like a lifetime. A month is a long time when you're fully immersed. In both Laos and Vietnam, I've felt like I've genuinely integrated into the local culture through authentic experiences. I think that's what real traveling is about — when a place and its people leave a lasting imprint on your life and psyche.
Once I made it to Hue, I treated myself to an incredible sushi dinner — much needed after living on endless bowls of phở. Later, I explored the walking street and was surprised by how charming the city felt. It was full of locals, and the vibe wasn't centered around drinking. One of the busiest spots was actually a milk tea shop — even at 9 PM on a Saturday night. The energy was young, vibrant, and refreshing. It's something I really appreciate about Vietnam.
Tomorrow, I'll tackle the Hai Van Pass — a legendary seaside route that winds from Hue through Da Nang to Hoi An. I'm excited to slow things down a bit for my last few days in Vietnam. I'll also need to figure out how to sell my motorbike before I leave. Big days ahead.
